Arena Tile & Stone

Repair and Maintainance of Tiled Pools-Residential and Commercial

eric — Sun, 24 Jun 2012 19:37:33 +0000

Tiled Pools should receive yearly inspection and maintenance in order to reduce costly repairs in the future. Even though a tiled pool has a very durable surface there are other factors that may need to be addressed as your pool ages.

Arena Tile has been maintaining tiled pools for several years. The first step in the maintainance process is to drain the pool. Once the pool is drained we can inspect for any loose tiles or grout. We proceed to clean the tile in the pool and remove any bacteria, dirt and grime. The last step includes replacing missing tiles, existing substrate and loose grout if necessary.

Tile is a perfect choice for a homeowner looking for a unique, beautiful and functional pool design. Porcelain Mosaic tiles are the most popular for several reasons. They can be designed in many patterns and colors. For commercial/ public pools, porcelain mosaic tile is used for its durability. Porcelain tiles have low porosity, high wear rating, and an excellent coefficient of friction rating. And due to their small size using a mosaic tile will make transitions easier. There are also a multitude of specialty pieces available that may be necessary to make that smooth transition eliminating sharp edges and corners.

Some tile pools have a monolithic (one piece with no seams) cement formed skeleton with a water proof type of membrane sandwiched between two layers of concrete. Tiles are then installed over the skeleton and most often grouted using a cementitious grout. Other pools may have a sheet membrane applied directly to the cement proof skeleton with tile installed to the waterproof membrane. There are also gunite pools and even fiberglass pools that are tiled but require special products and materials to do the job correctly.

The proper PH of the water in a tiled pool is very important. If not properly PHd the water in the pool will attack the cement products present in your tiled pool causing damages. That means a cementitious grout will lose its integrity over time and eventually wash out between the tiles. With the grout washed away the adhesive and base can start deteriorating leading to loose or missing tiles.

Before replacing tile the substrate needs to be sound. If not it needs to be replaced. When replacing the substrate consider using a latex modified thickened product. This will help the substrate become chemical resistant. Sometimes tiles are replaced without using an adhesive rated for submersion application. This leads to tiles falling out. A latex modified adhesive will improve tile adhesion and aid in the tile when the pool expands and contracts.

When pool repairs are completed , proper care must be followed in the products used to achieve maximum results.

Anti Fracture Membrane

eric — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 22:45:06 +0000

An Anti Fracture Membrane protects tiles from cracking due to the horizontal movement in the substrate (base floor). The membrane will allow the substrate to move independently from the tiled surface. The membrane bridges any movement in the substrate therefore not allowing that movement to transfer to the tiled surface resulting in a cracked surface. Even though the membrane is secured to the substrate and the tile is adhered to the membrane, the membrane stretches where needed preventing or reducing stress transference eliminating cracks to occur in your floor.

There are many different forms of anti fracture membrane available. One of the most effective is the anti fracture membrane made of a multi weaved fabric reinforced with a plastic netting. This type of membrane is purchased on a roll which is approximately 36 inches wide. In installation the membrane is applied using a modified thinset that is notched trowelled to the substrate surface. The fabric is then applied to the thinset and smoothed with a trowel working from the middle out. This will eliminate air pockets between the fabric and thinset and insure maximum adhesion of the membrane.

Crack isolation membrane is used synonymously with anti fracture membrane. The material and procedure is the same as the antifracture membrane but crack isolation addresses existing cracks in the substrate. Some companies provide smaller width rolls of fabric in their kits that are used for crack isolation when installing a crack isolation membrane; the fabric should overlap the crack at least three inches in each direction. Use crack isolation membrane and only addressing existing cracks in your subfloor may be a cost effective measure at the time but it does not insure future cracks from developing in you subfloor that may eventually transfer to your tiled surface.

Cleavage membranes are usually some form of fabric that is installed over the subfloor. This membrane is not adhered to the subfloor but is allowed to move independently. Many tile contractors have used 15 lb. felt paper for years and continue to use is as a cleavage membrane. When used in areas of high moisture such as a shower area, entry or basement, the fabric only membrane will deteriorate over time. To overcome this problem a mortar base is installed over the membrane and wire is embedded into the mortar for added strength.

Waterproof Membrane is a water proof material used primarily in showers and spas. Waterproof membranes are now widely used as a shower pan (instead of a copper pan). The waterproof membrane is a rubberized material approximately 40 mm thickness and sold on a roll. The membrane is approximately 36 inches wide and come with available corners. Adhesive can be purchased to mend pieces together. Caulk also is available for the areas that need to be water tight like around the shower drain. Some companies sell a two part system. This involves applying a liquid first to the substrate and then embedding a reinforced fabric into the liquid. A finish coat of liquid using a brush or roller is applied in the end to insure a waterproof area.

Wherever your floor is located it is an essential that some type of anti fracture membrane is applied to your sub floor before adding the tile. It is an extra step in the tile installation but will prevent cracks in the future.

Creating A Custom Floor With Quarry Tile

eric — Sun, 22 Apr 2012 21:17:49 +0000

This custom floor was just finished in a home basement using a basic 8 inch x 8 inch square quarry tile (cut into 3 ½ inch squares) and 7 ½ inch x 3 ½ inch rectangular quarry tile in earth tones of terra cotta and brown.

Many homeowners and designers do not like to use quarry tile because of its commercial appearance. In looking at the tile you might think it would be very drab, or too plain to create an attractive designer floor. It took some time, and thought and many cuts but the final design demonstrates that you can create a fabulous designer floor with a little attention, a creative mind and very basic commercial quality tile.

The custom tile floor was installed in a basement area at the bottom of a stairway leading to a small laundry area. There was not a large floor area to work with so the design pattern had to be small enough to fit along a narrow hallway. The basement also leads to the garage and is the main entrance to the house so the floor had to be durable. The beauty of using the quarry tile in this area is it is very durable and has a PEI rating of 5, the highest rating given by the Porcelain Enamel Institute for an abrasion rating.

The square quarry tile in the lighter shade acted as a focal point for the pattern that was put on a 45 degree angle to give interest to what started out as plain basic tile. If you look at the same pattern straight on, without the diagonal you get a totally different look, far from the custom look the 45 creates. The square tile was actually cut from an 8 x 8, which was too large to use in its full size as a small pattern was needed for this area. On the outside of the square the long rectangle tiles in a darker brown shade were used to construct the diagonal. The pattern was repeated and squared off at the stairway and doorway and along the cabinet wall.

The quarry tile itself appeared to be rather dark for a basement area so we needed to be very careful in choosing the grout color. Grey or dark brown grout would make the tile and the area appear too dark, and orange grout would be too much of a contrast, so a light taupe was selected, which is a nice compliment to the terra cotta color tile. The color brought out the peach tones of both the terra cotta and brown tiles. And since this area will receive a lot of traffic, the taupe color grout will not show dirt and stains as easily.

However before grouting the floor was presealed to aid in the grouting and eliminate any grout haze as the quarry tile is very porous. Once the floor was grouted a penetrating sealer was used to make the tile and grout both stain resistant.

This is just one of the many ways to use very simple materials to create a custom floor design. A designer pattern will take more time than a straight design due to the many cuts and the figuring to make all ends match, but in the end you will have a truly unique floor that is exclusive to your home.

What is a Mud Job?

eric — Sun, 01 Apr 2012 20:19:52 +0000

A Mud Job is a labor intense job performed by experienced tile setters-plasterers. Many tile setters at one time were also plasterers because the two processes involve many of the same procedures and skills. A mud job requires troweling a cement mortar onto the walls and ceiling and then beating tiles into this cement base before the cement is cured. The grout color on a mud job was usually white (white cement) for the walls and a grey (grey cement) for the floor. Many mud showers that are still functioning after many years of use with no issues and are being replaced only for a change in tile design and tile color. A mud job is the best foundation to start with as it creates a seamless base that is square, level and plumb.

The introduction of new products has reduced and changed the mud job process. No longer is there a need to beat the tile into the brown coat. The brown coat (mixture of sand cement/ masonry lime) can cure and tile installed better using a thinset. This enables the homeowner to pick from a variety of grout colors. The use of pre fabricated cement board has also limited the use of mud work. Installing cement board is basically one step process versus a three step process for a mud job. Therefore for budget reasons, cement board is used versus a mud job.

The 1st step of a mud job starts with fastening rib lath (ribwire) to your bare studs. The ribwire is cut with a pair of wire snips. (Use caution when handling the ribwire as it is extremely sharp.) There is an up position when fastening the ribwire using 1 – 1 ¼ inch roofing nails. If the rib wire is installed upside down the scratch coat (sand /cement mixture) will roll off the wire as you start to apply. Ribwire at one time was a 2.54 black steel wire mesh. Today you can purchase 2.76 galvanized wire mesh. The ribwire comes in sheets 97 inches x 27 inches. The wire mesh is overlapped approximately 2 inches and enough nails are use to secure the wire and keep it taut. If the wire mesh is not fastened taut it will be more difficult to apply the scratch coat (step 2) it could also lead to a heavier brown coat (step 3) because of the indentation that will form between studs. When fastening the wire mesh to the ceiling install it going in one direction. This will make applying the scratch coat easier.

The 2nd step is called the scratch coat. This is a sand (washed fine sand)/ cement mixture with the consistency of mortar. The scratch coat stiffens the wire providing a rigid, strong base for the brown coat (3rd step). When applying the scratch coat using a hawk and trowel, care must be given not to press too hard otherwise most of the cement will fall in back, between the studs. If a vapor barrier (15 lb felt paper) is used this will help from losing most of the cement. As the scratch coat continues to be applied to the rib wire it is scratched using a scarifer or a piece of rib wire cut to create a key into the scratch coat. Run the tool key left to right parallel to the rib wire. This will insure your brown coat will adhere to the scratch coat. Applying your scratch coat can be challenging especially when applying it to the ceiling and should only be attempted by a professional.

The 3rd step is to apply a brown coat. The brown coat is a mixture of sand (washed fine sand) cement and masonry lime. The brown coat adds strength and thickness to the walls creating a plumb, level and square shower enclosure. Before applying the brown coat, the scratch coat must be dry (24-48 hours). If the scratch coat becomes too dry it may have to be dampened with water for adhesion. Too much water and the brown coat will roll off the wall. Rip temporary screeds using 6/4 inch board that is 1/8 inch thick. Cut them the desired length from floor to ceiling. Then apply an amount of brown coat to your back wall 6 inches wide. Insert one of your slightly dampened temporary screeds into the brown coat. Placing your level parallel on the screed tap it using a rubber mallet until plumb. This screed should be embedded into the brown coat a minimum of ½ inch in depth from the scratch coat. Clean excess mud from the edge of the screed using the edge of the trowel. Continue installing a second screed on the same wall. Try to stay away from the adjacent wall approximately 4-6 inches. This will help you run a smaller square on the screeds. Continue installing temporary screeds on your adjacent walls. Check for square with your back wall to insure that you will have the proper thickness of your brown coat. Remember that your shower valves were set and given a finish depth. If you have a shower jamb without a return you can fasten a ¾ board to the outside shower jamb as your second screed. If you have return jambs with a shower door application the ¾ inch board will have to be placed perpendicular to the return wall and used as a screed. The ¾ inch board should be the width of the finished browned jamb. This ¾ inch board is embedded into the brown coat just like the temporary screed with the edge serving as the screed surface. The face of the ¾ board must be plumb and edge square to the adjacent wall. You must take into account the width needed for the shower door. Once you have your screeds in place you can start applying the brown coat. Apply tight the first coat and then double up. Take a straight edge and run up the wall staying on the screeds. Remove excess from the straight edge and return it to the mortar bed. The brown coat mixture may require remixing depending on how quickly it is used. Chances are you will rescreed the wall several times before it becomes flat. Proceed applying the brown coat to adjacent walls. With the walls done run a square into your corners riding on the adjacent screeds. More mud may have to be added to the corners. After the brown coat has taken up, float the walls using a wood float. Small voids aren’t a problem and will only aid in the adhesion of the tile. Remove the temporary screeds and fill the void with mud and float. The walls should be set enough to act as a screed.

The ceiling can be browned using the same method as the walls using temporary screeds. A tight coat is recommended for the ceiling otherwise it might just roll off if applied too heavy. If you need to apply a heavy coat to the ceiling apply a first coat, scratch it and wait until it sets up slightly and then reapply a second coat.

You now have a plumb, square, and level shower ready to apply the tile or stone.

This is just a brief description of what a mud job entails. It truly requires a craftsman to do it correctly. And should only be attempted by a professional.

Installing a Grab Bar

eric — Sun, 01 Apr 2012 20:02:44 +0000

Whether due to age or injury, it may be required to have something to aid us from getting out of the tub or just to grab onto if we feel ourselves falling in the shower. Grab bars should be fastened to something solid and not just anchored into the tile and partially into the substrate. Grab bars should be fastened into your studs with fasteners provided by the manufacturer.

A good idea to think about when remodeling your shower or bath is to include blocking around the perimeter of your shower or tub to later accommodate a grab bar. 2’ x 8’ blocking 34 – 42 inches on average should be installed 3 feet from the shower floor. (Remember to make a schematic for future reference when installing a bar.) If you have this done at the time of remodeling your bathroom it will save time and expense in the future when you may decide to install the grab bar in the shower or bath area.

Many people do not like the appearance of grab bars in their showers, but there are companies that make them in a variety of finishes and designs. You can often purchase a grab bar that will match other fixtures in your bathroom or coordinate with the tile or stone that is on your bathroom wall or shower stall wall. They can be mounted vertically as well as horizontally in the shower or tub area.

At one time companies sold a combination grab bar/soap dish. These had a thick backing that could be deeply embedded into the brown coat of a mud job. But as these were continually installed incorrectly, many injuries occurred resulting in the discontinued manufacturing of a grab bar/ soap dish combination.

When choosing a grab bar you must also make sure the finish and fasteners are rust resistant. Otherwise you could have rust bleed on your ceramic tile or stone surface. Before installing your screws to fasten the grab bar be sure to apply silicone caulk to the screw threads to seal the head of the screw.

Custom Luxury Bath Ideas

eric — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 16:05:33 +0000

There are a multitude of choices and ideas when looking to create a luxury bath/spa for your home. A change in the layout, fixtures, and choice of materials will all make a difference in creating a custom luxury design for your bathroom.

You can start with changing your bathroom layout by keeping your tub and adding a separate shower stall or removing your tub entirely and creating a stand alone shower stall. You can also add a wall or half wall to section off the bath/shower area, using glass blocks , or covering the wall with material you have selected to finish the shower area .

Changing your fixtures can also contribute to creating that luxury bath/spa. Choose a Jacuzzi tub to replace your standard tub . Replace your sink with a pedestal sink or undermount sink set into a natural stone countertop . Also adding an array of shower sprays to your shower stall, can help to create a lavish spa atmosphere. And installing a natural stone seat or a niche for your toiletries can help to contruct a relaxed bathing area.

However the most effective way to change the look and create a lavish design in your bath is by updating the materials with new tile and grout or maybe a natural stone such as marble, granite ,slate or limestone.

There are so many materials to choose from however the most luxurious and durable are the natural stones; marble , granite . limestone and slate. Natural stone installed in your shower, on your floor or on the bathroom walls can be polished for an elegant look or left with a natural finish for a more earthy feel. The edges can be finished with a bull nose to give a smooth surface to your corners or boundaries. Natural stone is easy to maintain and if installed properly can last a lifetime.

Many homeowners opt for tile because of the many colors and designs they offer. When selecting tile there are a multitude of choices: ceramic tile, porcelain tile, mosaic tile and glass tiles.

Glazed ceramic tile is the most commonly used in the bath area as they are water and crack resistant and easy to maintain. They also offer the widest range of colors and design. The tiles can be set straight or arranged vertically or diagonally to create a unique design.

Mosaic tiles are most often used as a border but many times are used on the shower floor. Their advantage to being used on the shower floor is that they can make the pitch to the drain that larger tiles cannot . Mosaic tiles are also available in a variety of materials such as glass, slate, travertine and pebble. The glass tiles are offered in many shades with the most vibrant in shades of water and greenery such as blue, green, lilac and turquoise. This makes them particulary popular in summer cottages because of their cool and fresh appearance.

Whatever material you select, it is the combination and design of components; layout, fixtures, material and other accents that will create the ultimate luxury bath/spa for your home.

Membrane Versus Copper Pan for Your Shower Floor

eric — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 15:00:58 +0000

Fortunately we are seeing less copper pans being used for the shower pan when installing a new shower floor. Traditionally plumbers have installed the shower pan which most often was preformed from copper and many homeowners were reluctant to move forward to the newer rubberized membrane material being installed by a tile contractor.

Many times the copper shower pan is installed and the rough plumbing completed with little care given to the pan when working in the area. A screw or nail dropped then stepped on in this area could result in a pin hole which could lead to a shower floor leak. That is why the shower pan should always be flooded to check for any holes and cracks before proceeding with mudding the base of the shower floor and applying the tile to the shower floor

Copper is a poor choice for the shower pan because there is no pre pitch in the pan. This means the water in the pan needs to seek a certain level in order to drain through the weep holes rather then drain naturally. Water in the pan combined with cement on the base of the shower floor will have a negative reaction with the copper. Also the shower curb is not protected correctly when using copper because the pan cannot be molded and folded over to protect the horizontal surface of the curb. Most curbs installed in this way will rot out very quickly. Often when going through a shower renovation and the shower is taken apart, the curb is rotted, especially the lower part of the shower jamb. Copper pans also never seem to fit correctly, if the floor is not level or the walls are not square. They always seem to kink in the corners or at the face of the shower stall.

At one time when all showers were mudded this wasn’t a concern because the walls were blown out roughly ¾ inches. Then cement board started being used and this created a problem as the walls were not straight and you would have to shim your studs to get a plumb wall. The problem usually occurred on the fixture wall because the rough plumbing was already completed. If not corrected you end up with different size tiles leading to the top of the wall. Some installers fill this area with thinset which might correct the plumb situation but now the wall is out of square.

By using a waterproof membrane for a shower pan, you can address many of these issues. Membrane material can conform to any shape of your shower stall design and can be folded over to protect the shower curb and jamb. By having a tile contractor install the membrane (rather than the plumber) and installing the base of the shower soon after, the membrane is not exposed to any traffic which may result in any damages or holes. You also eliminate the blame game in having a tile contractor doing the entire base of your shower; therefore if the shower leaks only one person has worked on the shower floor, installing the membrane, installing the cement floor base and then installing the tile floor. Membrane material is also compatible with your cementitious base which will help to eliminate any negative reaction in the future. Membrane will also conform to your pre pitch shower floor allowing your weep holes to function correctly.

Prepping Your Shower Floor

eric — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 14:20:03 +0000

Before you start to tile your shower floor you’ll want to be sure that your subfloor is properly pitched to your drain, and the shower pan or membrane is properly installed.

Pre-pitching a shower floor will direct water that would ordinarily accumulate in the shower pan to the weep holes located on the flange of the shower drain.

Weep Holes are necessary in a shower drain to allow water in the pan to drain. Without them the pan would fill up with water and migrate to the surface of the shower floor. This could create excessive efflorescent on your shower floor. Water staying in the pan can promote an environment for bacteria and mold.

The shower pan (which acts like a tub) is necessary to catch the water from the shower. Copper has always been the material of choice installed by plumbers, but with the increase in the cost of copper and the development of new materials, copper is now used less frequently.

Today, waterproof membranes are the material of choice.

The advantages in using a membrane versus other materials are many. Shower stall membranes are inert and will not react with a cement/sand mixture. Unlike other materials, membranes can be rolled, tucked and flattened to conform to any shape of your shower stall. This feature will help to protect the shower curb as the membrane can be rolled up, over and down the face of the shower onto the bathroom floor. The seam where the curb meets the bathroom floor is critical and should be well protected.

Waterproof membranes can also be used to protect Jacuzzi decks, shower niches and any vertical or horizontal joints for added protection.

Replacing Your Tub

eric — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 14:23:58 +0000

Have you ever thought about removing your present tub and turning it into a stand alone shower? In many homes the bathtub is no longer used.

Children grow older and no longer take baths, preferring the shower. Elderly people may start finding it difficult to get in and out of the tub. There are any number of scenarios where a stand alone shower is a preferable alternative – it’s safer and in some cases a necessity.

As you proceed with your bathroom remodeling project you may want to consider an electric warming floor unit.

Many people have steered away from tile or natural stone as they found the flooring material to be cold. However with the addition of radiant heat in the floor they can now enjoy the elegance and warmth of their new ceramic tile or stone floor without cold feet.

There are many advantages in choosing ceramic tile for your floor.

Unlimited colors, sizes, shapes and textures to create a unique design
Durable when selected and installed properly
Healthy option to other flooring material
Very little maintenance
Fire resistant and color fast
Cost effective when considering longevity of floor
GREEN. No VOC’s (volatile organic compounds)
Adds value to your home.

Go Green

eric — Tue, 14 Feb 2012 14:29:57 +0000

Indoor air quality is a major concern today and serious health problems can stem from VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds) in our homes.

Zero VOC: Did you know that tile contains no VOC’s?

Since tile is fired in a kiln at extremely high temperatures, there are no volatile organics that can be released into the air. Other flooring materials such as vinyl, carpet and wood can contain low VOC’s.

Tile is also a great option to carpet for people suffering with allergies or asthma. It discourages the grown of bacteria, mold and germs and is easy to maintain and keep clean without the use of harsh chemical compounds.